How to Splice an Adjustable Ridgeline for Hammock Suspension
You can build a lightweight, adjustable hammock ridgeline from two Amsteel pieces (40-inch and 140-inch) using lock brummels and buried splices instead of knots or whoopie slings.
A proper splice preserves Amsteel's working load and shaves pack weight versus doubled suspension systems, directly affecting hammock safety and comfort on the trail.
Section summaries
Trevor opens by introducing Hanging High Hammocks and states the video will splice adjustable ridgelines spanning 30 to 133 inches using lock brummels on each hammock end. He describes the two-piece build: a 40-inch Lark's head side with berry and a 140-inch adjustable side, noting it can replace whoopie slings because it avoids doubling material and is lighter. He closes the intro telling viewers to stay for the splice.
- Adjustable ridgeline length range is 30 to 133 inches.
- Two-piece design uses 40-inch and 140-inch Amsteel sections.
- System is lighter than whoopie slings by not doubling rope.
Sets the goal and explains why the build is useful.
Before splicing, Trevor lists the DIY kit tools: a hobby knife, latch hook with closing latch for pulling Amsteel back through itself, and a 5.5mm knitting needle used as a fid. He says expensive fids are optional and the knitting needle has worked for years. A cutting mat with measurements and a ruler complete the setup, after which he moves to splicing.
- Latch hook and knitting needle replace costly fids.
- Cutting mat with ruler measures Amsteel accurately.
- DIY kit supplies the three core tools needed.
Defines the exact tools required to follow along.
He measures a 40-inch Amsteel piece, marks it, and cuts. To taper, he marks half an inch, opens the rope with the knitting needle into four and four strands, then cuts four strands off each side for a clean taper. Trevor explains the taper lets the end bury without an abrupt edge that could cause early failure and reduce working load. The section ends with both ends tapered and ready for a lock brummel.
- Half-inch taper with 4-strand removal prevents internal edge failure.
- Thumbnail indentations mark measurements during work.
- Tapered end feeds and buries easier inside the rope.
Shows the foundational tapering step used on every end.
At the 10-inch and 4-inch marks he opens four/four strands, uses the latch hook to pull the tapered end through the 10-inch hole then the 4-inch hole, forming a lock brummel. He buries the tail one and a half to two inches past the exit, twisting the hook to separate strands without fraying a single strand, then milks the rope so Amsteel hides inside. This completes the larger loop end of the short piece.
- Lock brummel formed by crossing 4-inch and 10-inch openings.
- Twist latch hook to avoid fraying single strands on burial.
- Milking the splice hides the tapered end completely.
Core splice technique repeated throughout the build.
On the opposite end of the 40-inch piece he marks 4 and 6 inches, opens four/four strands, and makes a smaller lock brummel whose loop ends about half to three-quarters inch. He buries it into the long part, measuring one and a half to two inches past, but shows a mistake where the latch hook went too far and he restarted. The first part of the ridgeline is then finished.
- Smaller loop uses 4-inch and 6-inch marks instead of 10.
- Over-pushing the latch hook requires restarting the bury.
- Finished short piece has one large and one small loop.
Completes the short component and shows a real error to avoid.
Trevor measures and cuts a 140-inch Amsteel, tapers both ends identically to the first piece, and builds a single lock brummel at its 4 and 10 inch marks before burying the end. He sets this long piece aside, then returns to the first 40-inch piece to join them. The section establishes the two separate finished components ready for connection.
- Long piece follows same taper and brummel as short piece.
- Single lock brummel on 140-inch end is complete before joining.
- Join happens at the larger brummel of the 40-inch part.
Produces the second half and transitions to assembly.
He marks 7.5 and 10 inches from the larger brummel to form the berry, feeds the long piece through it keeping entry and exit on the same side, loops the free long end through the small loop twice, then through the berry. A 2.5-inch tail is folded and buried back into itself so it cannot pull through, using the latch hook to the bend and melting the berry. This locks the adjustment and stops dangling.
- Berry section at 7.5 to 10 inches enables adjustment.
- Double loop through small end secures the sliding connection.
- 2.5-inch folded tail blocks reverse pull-through.
Final assembly step that makes the ridgeline functional.
Trevor pulls the joined line to show the adjustment sliding and says one end goes to each hammock side while the berry gives length change. He demonstrates shortening the ridgeline, then asks viewers to comment, subscribe, like, and follow on Facebook, Instagram, and newsletter at hanginghighhammocks.com for discounts and new videos before closing.
- Adjustment is made at the berry by sliding the long piece.
- Each spliced end attaches to opposite hammock sides.
- Channel and site links offered for updates and discounts.
Shows result but is mostly calls to action.
Key points
- Two-piece adjustable ridgeline design — The ridgeline uses a 40-inch Lark's head section with a lock brummel and a 140-inch adjustable piece, joined so length can span 30 to 133 inches for a consistent hang.
- Lock brummel is the core splice — A lock brummel is a spliced loop made by feeding a tapered Amsteel end through a 4-inch and 10-inch opening using a latch hook, locking the rope into itself without hardware.
- Tapering prevents early failure — Ends are split into four-plus-four strands and half an inch of one side is cut away so the rope buries cleanly instead of leaving an abrupt edge inside.
- Burial depth controls strength — Each splice end is buried one and a half to two inches past its exit point, and the final tail is two and a half inches folded back into itself to block pull-through.
“it's going to use less material and therefore be a little more lightweight” — Trevor
“leaving this edge like that inside of it can cause it to fail early” — Trevor
AI-generated from the transcript. May contain errors.
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